East Anatolia

Left for the border early in the morning and passed through with little concern. Was a little worried it wouldn't be open due to the Kurdish "problems" in this region. In fact the South East has only been open to "tourists" for a few years and its looks like that won't last. Anyway by the time I got to the other end two very nice new Turkish buses were ready to depart so grabbed a seat. Got talking to two Iranian businessmen who had traveled the world but never been to Turkey. I was trying to convince them that Turkey wasn't full of thieves and criminals as they believed, when we pulled into the Kurdish stronghold off Yusekova.

The driver pulled the bus to a halt and began to back up, the conductor ran down the bus and everyone pulled there jackets over there heads. I was completely unaware to what was about to happen as were my Iranian friends. Then 20 or so children ran down a bank and began to pelt rocks at the bus. Most simply bounced off but a every now and then one would implant into the windscreen sending a shower of glass shards over the driver and the vacant seats. This continued for about 1 minute maybe more. I was starting to really shit myself by then as they surrounded the bus , was waiting for the Molotovs to come out, then they simply ran away!
There was silence for a while, then the Turks went off on one, from my very basic knowledge of Turkish, the Kurds weren't popular. As we drove through town the locals were delighted and laughed at the bus as it backed up to the military base. The military weren't too concerned either and after about 2 hours and a roll of sellotape we were on the way.

At every checkpoint vacant looking Turkish soldiers would unload the cargo from the bus (it was loaded with biscuits to the brim , I think unbeknown to the bus company), inspect out passports and the same procedure would repeat every 20km all the way to Van. Finally pulled into Van 10 hours later (after the bus stopped in a random industrial estate and reappeared minus the biscuits and perhaps more than a few litres of cheap Iranian Diesel). Was a relief to finally be there and went and immersed myself in Efes (Turkish Beer) by the ....well after 3 pints was utterly hammered. I would say that was because I haven't drunk in 30 days , but other "friends" of mine ,and they know who they are, will swear that is standard behaviour.

Tried to get to Akdamar island with its spectacularly located Armenian church but the boat wanted me to pay the full fare for 10 people before it would go so I waited, and I waited, and I waited and at 3pm called it quits without seeing a single interested tourist, be they foreign or domestic. Went back via Van Castle another mangificent monument perched on a rocky promotory above the old city that was raised in the 1920's to foil the approaching Russian Army.
Took a bus to Urfa in the morning, the bus took the scenic route around the spectacular Lake Van. I was happy with this to begin with but then realised the road blocks continued! Possibly the longest bus trip ever, especially as it passes through the Kurdish Captial of Diyarbakir. When going through the town more than a few time saw large groups of Police in riot gear marching into housing projects.

Finally pulled into Urfa and walked to the hotel. Was heading out to the Golbasi area when I came across a fellow kiwi at the bottom of the hotel. Very random as I had not seen a single traveler since leaving Peter and it got stranger as it turns out we had been in opposite hotels in Iran and heard about each other but not met, pretty classic. Anyway went out for a few social Beers which was very much a relief, in a beer garden in one of the most Islamic cities in Turkey.
Headed out early in the morning to the Golbasi area. Urfa is one of the oldest and most religious cities, for it is here that (allegedly) the prophet Job's site is and where Abraham was set fire by Satan and God put him out with water (a highly believable story if ever I heard one). Anyway the old town is awesome and the centre piece a 100m long fish pond where locals gather to feed sacred carp, is fantastic. The locals here don't see much tourism either which is unusual in Turkey and are very keen to have there pictures taken, talk to you and show you round. It was like being in Iran again, except for the beer and uncovered women (every now and again).

When I came to Turkey last year I really wanted to see Nemrut Dagi and the Komagene temples however time constraints made it impossible. My Kiwi companion Frisbee was in the same boat so it was with great anticipation that we headed to the small Mt Village of Karadut. Was able to hitch a ride up the locals just 5km form the summit and walked the steep path up. Again like Persepolis it doesn't disappoint. The location itself is amazing but the East and West terraces of this monument are world class. Had it completely to ourselves till just before sunset. Luckily was able to hitch a ride the 14km down with the owner of the pension who had taken a paying guest up.

Went back to Urfa with Murat a Turkish guy who has been studying in Yale for the past 4 years. Was cool to hang out with a "local", although when he addressed people in Turkish with a backpack, shorts and sandals in Turkish he got stranger looks than me when I try speaking the language. Turk's just don't backpack, most dont venture far from there own city.

Headed out to Kilis on the Syrian boarder , first thing in the morning. Made it to the small checkpoint by 1pm where a kind customs official made the bus passing through take me (about 1km to the Turkish passport office), I then thought I could see the office and decided to walk much to the Turks concern. After about 1/2km I thought I was at the Syrian border and greated the official in my finest Arabic I had been practising all day, only to discover it was the last Turkish checkpoint and I still had 2km to go!. According to the Syrain government all foreign tourists must attain a visa beforehand, but I founnd this a little hard to believe. I was right, smiling officials directed me to the bank where I paid $60 and I had my visa in 15-20 minutes, haha.